Repack wheel bearings full#
Repack wheel bearings series#
It’s pretty straightforward in the tool department (for an 80 Series LandCruiser, anyway): Alternatively, you can absolutely get a Drivetech or Terrain Tamer wheel bearing kit they only use quality Japanese bearings in their kits. Just make sure you go to your local bearing shop (CBC, for example) and buy high-quality ‘brand name’ bearings. All of the Toyota Genuine seals I’ve come across were NOK branded, too, so you don’t need to buy ‘genuine’.
As an example, Toyota doesn’t make bearings it purchases top-quality parts and puts them in a genuine box most often a quality Japanese bearing. Something that might blow your mind a bit here is that genuine bearings (and seals for that matter), that come in a little genuine parts box, will actually hold an SKF or Timken (or other brand name) bearing. On this thought, it’s absolutely worth getting and keeping the right size hub socket in your vehicle, just in case you’re 500 miles from home and a wheel bearing does work itself loose – you can nip it up to get yourself home safely and not have to worry about a wheel falling off.
Repack wheel bearings how to#
If you’re going to have a crack at doing them yourself, know how to torque them up properly, or leave it to an expert. Last but certainly not least, over-tightening (or under-tightening, for that matter) will lead to a swift death of the bearings. Make sure you get Japanese bearings, or European – think Timkin, SKF, etc. Cheap bearings are cheap for a reason, whether through the manufacturing process, materials used or both, so cheap won’t last. Wheel bearings, however, stop the wheels falling off… which is kinda important.
If you absolutely must save a couple of dollars on your rig, stop putting those stupid My Family stickers on it (chances are, your life and the lives of your family members aren’t going to rely on the stickers). If you didn’t know, rust is bad, and chocolate milk for oil just won’t cut it, m’kay?ĭon’t. The other issue is that going from hot to cold creates a vacuum behind the seal, and can draw water into your hub or behind the bearing. This can crack the bearing and cage (that holds the rollers in place), and you’re gonna have a bad day. Driving for three hours with a boat on the back, pulling up at the boat ramp and launching the tinny as soon as you get there is going to cool the bearings down to cold pretty bloody quickly. Go neg 44s and it’ll be even worse…Īn inherent aspect of wheel bearings (and bearings in general) is heat. Same deal as above… by putting the contact point of the rubber and wheel outside (or even inside) the centre of the mating face of wheel to hub, you’re going to increase side-load again.
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